Image Bank

When I found this picture called claustrophobic I had to look at it agian. I can see how to artist can make this picture claustrophobic by making the light unresistable.

This author has a blog with a variety of pictures, some using lighting and some just natural pictures. The author's name is Mark Goldstein and more of his fantastic pictures can be found here http://www.photographyblog.com/forums/lofiversion/index.php/t2844.html

This picture really cought my attention becuase of the moving person trapped in this small room. This picture was easy to tell that this is symbolising claustrophobia.

The artist; unknown, is very interested with nightmare pictures. There are many types of photos this photographer has taken, all of the picture are disturbing to look at but that is the part that catches the viewer's eye. The blog with all the other pictures is http://news.deviantart.com/article/32117/

Even though I did not find an artist for this picture I chose it anyway because I really like this picture and how there are two frames to make the pciture seem smaller and I also really like the fact that the hands are bold and become the focus of attention in this picture.

Printing Composition/Theory Notes

Contact Sheet

This was the first contact sheet that I made and was able to get one picture from it. The aperture was 4 and the time was 120 seconds.

From this contact sheet I was able to get the last three prints I needed for the claustrophobia project and I was able to get one of my teacher prints form this contact sheet. The settings for this contact sheet ap- 2.8 and time 115.

Print 1

This first print went pretty quickly. This only took me about two or three tries to get the best print I could. The aperture for this is 2.8 and the time is 285 seconds.

Theory notes: This print is considered claustrophobic for me because I don't like to read and the fact of focusing on one book makes me feel that it is the only that I can do.

Print 2

This print was very successful and did not take so much time, this was one of my best focused pictures I have taken. The aperture is 2.8 and the time is 220 seconds.

Theory notes: I chose to make this picture because unorganization makes me feel cluttered and thus leaving me as if i were in an enclosed space.

Print 3

This last print was also another print that took me a few times but it came out pretty good. The aperture is 2.8 and the time is 220 seconds

Theory notes: The concept for this print being claustrophobic is pretty much the same as the last print. The fact that I am focused on homerwork makes me feel that I can only do homework.

Print 4

This final print was a pretty good process I was able to get about two or three test strips and then find the right time for the final print. The settings ended up being ap- 1.8 and 400 seconds.

Theory notes: This print can speak for itself, the picture was taken through a small window suggesting enclosement.

Diary Entry- Claustrophobia

The process for this project went pretty slow for me. When I processed my film the contrast was not so good so I knew from the beginning that I was going to be working with some high times. My highest time ended up being 500 seconds so now I have gotten used to high times and am hoping that my other times will not be as long. I have learned to use my enlarger in different ways and know able to easily find the right aperture to use and now i just have to find the way to calculate for the right aperture with the right time to get the best result.

Printing Composition Hair Lighting.

This is the first contact sheet that I used. I didn't use any of these picture because they didn't fit the requirements for the project. Time 43 Aperture 5.6. 

The second contact sheet that I made gave me every picture. Aperture 5.6 Time 68. 


Print 1

This is a test strip of my first print. The times were very high, 165, 170, 175, and 180. These are the highest times I have used so far. The aperture for this was 2.8.

This is a small version of my first final print, the time was 99 seconds with a 5.6 aperture.


Print 2

I had no test strip for this print, The time was 180 and the aperture was 2.8.


Print 3



This print gave me the most trouble. I worked on a different enlarger that gave me a very high time of 600 seconds then when I moved to a different enlarger I was able to use 530 seconds and get a decent picture.

Image Bank

This picture was taken by Matt Grazier of his wife. The couple are both photographers. They both love photography. All of the photos they take are black and white.

I chose this picture because it is a very close result to what we can get in the darkroom. This picture caught my attention because it is so simple that we could even make a print like this but being so simple it is also a very good print. There was a bight like used causing the front part of her body to light up and since the background is dark you can not see a shadow which is a good effect. 

http://www.worldofstock.com/closeups/PMO2725.php

This photo taken by Ian Mitchinson is a close up photo of a girl face. Ian Mitchinson sells his pictures online, most of them are focused on the styles of people. 

When I saw this picture compared to all of the rest of his i noticed that this one wasn't very set up. All of his other pictures he has his subjects in a specific way and with a certain style. This style maybe casual. I chose this picture because I like the fact that a close up photo of this girl doesn't have her hair fixed it is just everywhere. 

www.inmagine.com/ smp012/smp0006261-photo

The photographer is unknown for this picture. 

I chose this picture because these were the kinds of pictures that we were trying to make in this project. The main subject is in the front and the secondary subject is in the back not even paying attention. 

Theory Notes- Flashes and Light Meters

Flashes

A Flash is a device that is used in photography to create an instant flash. A photographer may want to use a flash because there might not be any natural light and if there is no light then the picture will not come out. The speed of an average flash is 1/1000 or 1/2000 of a second. A lower quality flash is usually built right onto the camera and a higher quality one is one that can be mounted wither on the camera or on a stand.

In professional studios, flashes are usually so big (meaning they are good quality as well) and must be mounted on a standalone stand. These flash units are powered by either a special battery or connected directly to the electrical outlet.

To manipulate the flash photographers use an umbrella. There are two different colors, a black umbrella with a silver inside to reflect the light and then there is a white umbrella that is used to create a soft light leaving a soft shadow or none at all. There are some downfalls to using a flash. There is a high chance of red eye. There is even a chance that the person in the picture will close their eyes depending on the magnitude of the light.




In this photo the photographer used the flash to freeze the water and capture each little drop.
There are more photos with the use of lighting on the website cited: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flash_(photography)


Light Meter

A light meter is used in photography to measure the amount of light. The knowledge of the amount of light is useful because a photographer can then find out what the proper Aperture to use. Usually a light meter also includes a computer letting the photographer know what shutter speed to use and what aperture to use. A light meter is used with illumination by calculating how much time the subject of the picture should be illuminated to get the best effect.




This is an old version of a light meter giving the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.

Dairy Entry Hair Lighting Project

The beginning of this project has been a little rough for me because I have had to use some pretty high times to get a decent picture. My Picture came out pretty well and I need two more to go. If I have to go at the speed I am right now then I might not finish with my prints but i still have two classes to get my prints done which should be enough time.

Printing Composition

This is the first contact sheet that I made for this project and I was able to chose all my prints from this contact sheet. The aperture is 4 the time is 14 and the filter is 2.

Print 1

This test trip is of my shirt, sweatshirt, and hat. The aperture is 4 the times are 36, 38, 40 and the filter is 2.

This print took a couple tries to get but it ended up coming out pretty good. The Aperture is 8 the time is 18 and the filer is 2.

Print 2

This test strip was taken out of the solution and is beginning to change colors The aperture is 2.8 the times are 4, 6, 8, and 10. The filer is 3.

This was another print that took me a few tries to get right and I was finally able to get the print. The time is 10 the filter is 3 and the aperture is 2.8.

Print 3

This print took 3 tries to get but I finally got the right tim for the light. The time is 11 the aperture is 2.8 and I used a 2 filter.

Image Bank

I chose this picture of the shoes because I like how simple the shoes are placed in the picture and the fact that at the top of the picture you can see as if the shoes are hanging but we do not know if they actually are.

The author's name is Juha and the picture is from their blog at www.juhavalimaki.com/photography/old-shoes



I chose this photo because the way that the artist has a male on one side and a female on the other the picture is balanced out. I also really like this picture because the basic color of the clothes on the male and the female has a variation of colors on her dress. This photo is from a chanel fashion shoot. The artists name is not given but the picture is a good example of a good fashion shoot.



This image is a hard hat used in construction taken in hard light. This photo caught my attention because the light color of the hat and the dark setting that it is in.

The artist is Ted and he says that photography has been a big part of his life. He says that he has been messing with cameras for a while.

This link gives the artists supplies that he uses to take his photos:
www.photoskiasi.com/index.php?showimage=5

Theory Notes- Shooting in Low and Sun light

Low Light

With low light or night time photography you will get a warm effect with your picture. A good example of a very nice photo with low light is a city skyline just after the sun sets because the sky has a very nice color of red or pink or orange. With low light you have to consider that the photo may come out with very dark parts of the print.



This is an example of a photo taken with low light. As you can see that most of the picture is dark but the middle part which is the most important part of the photo(the focus point)

Other examples of low light photos and extended exposure photos can be found here: http://www.daveltd.com/photo/low-light/concepts/

Sun Light

When taking photos outside using sunlight, the best time is when the sun is low in the sky. It is recommended to try and get the sunlight on the side of your subject. You can use the sun as a back light but you have to be careful not to get the glare of the sun in your lens or that the sun doesn't give too much light on the subject blending the light colors with the sky.



This picture of kids at a playground was taken in midday with the sun low in the sky as suggested.

Many photos with sunlight are shown on this website: http://www.geofflawrence.com/photography_tutorial_available_light.php

Dairy Entry Fashion Photography

Lately I haven't had any problems in the dark room. Everything is going along pretty smoothly. The only set back that I have is that my negatives do not have good contrast so when developing I have to have a lot of time on my enlarger. Right now I have reached the highest time that I need for one print. I am having to expose the paper for 73 seconds under the enlarger. The highest time that I have ever had to use up until now was maybe 45 seconds. Hopefully my next roll of film will have good contrast after I process it. In every other way the project is going along pretty good.

Printing Composition

Print 1

This is the first contact sheet that I had printed for the portrait photos. 

Aperture-4 Time-12,14,16,18

This was my first try at this final print nothing went wrong with this one. The aperture is 4and the time that I used was 18 seconds.

Print 2

Aperture-4  Time 12,14,16,18

This print was the one that gave me the most trouble in getting done. I first exposed the whole print at 16 seconds then burned the wall in with an additional 10 seconds. 

This is my second contact sheet and this is where i got my still life prints. 

Print 3

Aperture-5.6 Time-24,26,28 Filter- 2

This print was very quick to produce. Aperture-5.6 Time-28 Filter-2

Print 4

There was no need for me to do a test strip for this print because the same time was able to be used with the print before this one, so the aperture-5.6, time-28 and the filter-2

This is my third and last contact sheet that I got my landscape photos from. 

Print 5

Aperture-4, Time-16,18,22,24

This print was a pretty much first try. Aperture-4 Time-19

Print 6

This print taught me what happens when you take the picture out of the chemicals too early, The sky turned from a yellowish color to a dark gray. Aperture-4 Time-8,10,12,14.

This print was another one that took me a couple tries. The tree were too dark a few times but this time I got the right time. Aperture-4 Time-10

Image Bank

I chose this picture by Daniel J. Watkins because I really like the lighting on the kids face. The side closest to the camera is very dark by the use of hard lighting. On the othere side of the kids face you can see the brighter light which gives good contrast to the photo.

Daniel J. Watkins is a photographer that blogs about his experiences just as our photography class is doing and he gives advice to people on how to improve there photography.

I chose this photo because I really like the contrast between the whiteness of the brides dress and the dark shades of the floor. This photo is an example of soft light. The settings of the photographers camera are, Balanced light with Diffuser. Canon 1DMKII @ 1/25th, ISO 200, 16mm @ f/2.8, 550EX on ETTL @ +1 Compensation.

The photographer is unknown except for the settings he/she used.




This photo that I have chosen is an example of classic three-point lighting. This picture is really nice becuase the left side of the boy's face is very bright because of the fill light and the outline of the boy is really enforced by the help of the back light.

The photographer has taken a lot of his time to make a huge project about lighting. He has done many types of lighting, hard, soft and three-point.

Theory Notes

Soft light

When using soft light, it creates a "wrap" effecto on the object. The light creates a shodow casting from the object and also creates a soft outline of the object. There are a few factors that make the light softer:

• The distance of the light, the closer the softer.


• The size of the light, the larger the softer.


• The angle of the light, the bigger the angle the softer.
  

The uses of Soft Light:

• To make the object look nicer, to reduce the wrinkles that a person has.
  


• To have light without creating a shawdow.
  

This is a soft light studio and as youcan see the photographetr uses white sheets to abosorb some of the light from the side of the focused area.

Hard Light

Hard light creates a shadow over an object and the appearence of the shadow depends on the type of light source you use. Some lighting can create a nice crisp shadow over the object and some other lighting can create a very heavy shadow around the object. If you angle the hard light in an appropriate way you will be able to really see the texture of the object. This is done by creating a heavy shadow at an angle .

This is a way you can make hard light just with the flash of your camera and a piece of paper. Just bend the paper and put one end in front of the flash and the light will reflect and create hard light.

Three-point Lighting

This lighting is the most common used method in film and photography. If a photographer decides to use this method then they have complete control of how they want to light up their object. While the photographer is lighting the object with this method they have to remember to watch the shadow that they are creating. The three lights that are used in this method are The key light, the back light and the fill light.

The Key light is the light that is directly focused on the object. When indoors the key light is usually a special light or the camera's flash but when outdoors the sun usually acts as the key light. If the photographer dicides to shoot outside they now cannot move the key light to fight around the subject they now have to move the subject to fit in the position of the key light, the sun.

The fill light is positioned to the side of the subject but lower than the key light. This balances out the shadow on the subject. The fill light is usually softer than the key light.

The backlight is placed to focus on the back of the subject. This creates a rim for the subject. This back light is also used to separate the subject from the background.

This is a model of the most common method of three-point lighting. It looks very simple to set up, you just need to know the settings of the lights.